Wikipedia / Adam Ondra
Wikipedia / Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra (; born February 5, 1993) is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is one of the two male athletes (alongside Sorato Anraku in 2023) to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines (lead climbing in 2009, 2015, and 2019 and bouldering in 2010).
At age 13, Ondra redpointed his first graded sport route. Rock & Ice noted that by 2011, he was "onsighting 5.14c's by the handful", and by 2013, had "more or less repeated every hard route in the world—easily". By end 2018, Ondra had climbed 1,550 sport routes between grades and , of which one was a , three were , and three were onsights of .
Ondra is the first climber to redpoint a route with a proposed grade of (Silence, 2017), the first climber to redpoint a route (Change, 2012), the first-ever to flash a route (Supercrackinette, 2018), and the second ever to onsight a route (Cabane au Canada, 2013).
Although primarily known for sport climbing, Ondra has repeated or established difficult big wall climbs, traditional climbs, and boulder problems. Because of his achievements, Ondra is often referred to as the world's strongest climber.
Climbing career
Early years
Ondra started climbing at the age of six; his parents are climbers, and they shared their passion with him. In 1999, at age six, in Rovinj, Croatia, Ondra climbed a route with bolts every half meter. He quickly rose to fame, appearing in climbing magazines as his accomplishments became both more impressive and frequent:
In 2001, (at age eight), he onsighted routes.
In 2002, (at age nine), he onsighted and redpointed .
In 2003, (at age ten), he onsighted .
In 2004, (at age eleven), he onsighted and redpointed .
In 2005, (at age twelve), he onsighted .
In 2006, (at age thirteen), he managed to redpoint his first , Martin Krpan at Misja Pec.
Competition climbing
In 2007 and 2008, he won the IFSC World Youth Championship, category Youth B. In 2009, at age sixteen, Ondra competed for the first time in the Lead Climbing World Cup, finishing ahead of Spanish Patxi Usobiaga and Japanese Sachi Amma. In 2010, he won the Bouldering World Cup, beating Austrian climber Kilian Fischhuber and Tsukuru Hori from Japan, becoming the first athlete in history to win the World Cup in both disciplines (lead and bouldering).
Ondra failed to qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, as he was disqualified for accidentally toeing a bolt during the lead climbing portion of the combined event. However, at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse later that year, he managed to secure a place in the Olympic Games, despite falling ill after reaching the finals of the event.
In April 2021 Ondra won gold in the bouldering discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Meiringen, Switzerland. This marked his 20th World Cup gold medal. Ondra finished in sixth place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in the Boulder, Lead and Speed Combined and also sixth place in the 2024 Summer Olympics Boulder and Lead Combined.
Rock climbing
During a March 2011 trip to Spain, Ondra became the second-ever person to onsight a route, after Patxi Usobiaga. On October 4, 2012, Ondra redpointed Change in the Hanshelleren Cave, Flatanger Municipality, Norway, the world's first-ever route to receive a grade of .
On February 7, 2013, Ondra ascended La Dura Dura in Oliana, Catalonia, Spain, his second after Change. He worked on this project with American climber Chris Sharma, and the first ascent took Ondra nine weeks. On February 9, 2013, two days after La Dura Dura, Ondra succeeded in the second ascent of the route, Fight or flight, first climbed by Sharma in 2011. On July 9, 2013, Ondra realized the second-ever onsight of a route in history, after Alexander Megos, with the ascent of Cabane au Canada in Rawyl, Switzerland.
On November 21, 2016, Ondra completed the second free ascent of the 1,000-metre granite route, The Dawn Wall, a 32-pitch grade big wall climbing route at El Capitan in the Yosemite Valley. The route was widely regarded as the hardest big wall climbing route in the world. Ondra led every pitch and completed the project in 8 days (the first ascenders, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson alternated leads, and spent 19 days on the wall).
On April 23, 2017, Ondra set a new highpoint for Black Diamond's The Project indoor sport route in Stockholm, Sweden, which is believed to be the hardest in the world.
On September 3, 2017, after about 4 years of dedicated work and training, Ondra climbed Silence, in the Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger Municipality, Norway. Silence was the world's first-ever route to have a proposed grade of . On February 10, 2018, Ondra completed the world's first-ever flash of a confirmed route with his ascent of Super Crackinette in Saint-Léger du Ventoux, France.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
Climbing World Championships
YouthAdult
IFSC Climbing European ChampionshipsClimbing European Championships
Rock Master
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
Bouldering
Single-pitch routes
The table below shows the large number of routes graded or more ascended by Adam Ondra in about 16 years, from August 2, 2002 (when he redpointed his first 8a) to November 10, 2018. The total number is 1554, of which one was at and 725 were onsighted, including four onsights at and one flash at .
Redpoint
:
Silence (originally known as Project hard) - Flatanger Municipality (NOR) - September 3, 2017 - First ascent, and world's first-ever proposed route (the grade has to be confirmed).
:
Zvěřinec (Menagerie) - Holštejn (CZE) - November 20, 2022 - First ascent - Adam claims this as his hardest 9b+ and therefore the second hardest route of his life.
Vasil Vasil - Sloup v Čechách (CZE) - December 4, 2013 - First ascent
La Dura Dura - Oliana (ESP) - February 7, 2013 - First ascent
Change - Flatanger (Norway) - October 4, 2012 - First ascent, and the world's first-ever route.
:
B je to! - Vranjača (CRO) - September 28, 2023 - First ascent
Wonderland - Arco (ITA) - March 2022 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route 9b/9b+ or hard 9b.
Bomba - Arco (ITA) - March 2022 - First ascent
The Lonely Mountain - Arco (ITA) - December 2021. Second ascent after Stefano Ghisolfi.
Taurus - Býčí skála (CZE) - December 2021 - First Ascent
Neanderthal - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 12, 2019
Disbelief - Acephale (CAN) - July 20, 2018 - First ascent
Eagle-4 - St. Léger (FRA) - February 13, 2018 - First ascent
Move Hard - Flatanger (NOR) - July 10, 2017 - First ascent (link-up of two neighboring routes; through first crux of Move into second crux of Silence, at the time known as Project Hard)
Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - April 20, 2017 - Second ascent
Queen Line - Laghel (Arco, ITA) - April 19, 2017 - First ascent
Robin Ud - Alternativna stena (Slovakia) - October 5, 2016 - First ascent
Stoking the Fire - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 19, 2016 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
C.R.S. - Mollans sur Ouvèze (FRA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
First Round First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - February 3, 2014 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route
Move - Flatanger (NOR) - August 20, 2013 - First ascent. Ondra graded the route "9b/9b+, or just hard 9b". Repeated on June 17, 2019 by Seb Bouin, who later on upgraded the route to 9b+.
Iron Curtain - Flatanger (NOR) - August 3, 2013 - First ascent
Fight or flight - Oliana (ESP) - February 9, 2013 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2011)
La planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 22, 2011 - First ascent
Chilam Balam -Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011 - Second ascent (however Bernabe Fernandez's first ascent is not confirmed)
Chaxi Raxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 27, 2011 - First ascent of Chaxi direct start
La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - February 16, 2011 - First ascent
Golpe de Estado - Siurana (ESP) - March 13, 2010 - Second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)
:
El Maquinista - Montanejos (ESP) - November 12, 2023 - First ascent
Chicken Nose - Isenfluh (SUI) - November 4, 2023 - First ascent
Bombardino - Bus de la Stria (ITA) - February 23, 2022
Trofeo dell'Adriatico - Bus de la Stria (ITA) - January 27, 2022
Kout pikle - (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - December 18, 2021 - First Ascent
Molekuly - (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - October 26, 2021 - First Ascent
Bohemian Rhapsody - Velká (CZE) - April, 2020 - First Ascent
Qui - Geisterschmiedwand (AUT) - September 19, 2019 - Second ascent
Catxasa - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 10, 2019
Czech trip - Mavrovi Anovi (MKD) - October 19, 2018 - First Ascent
High Line - Kanjon Tijesno (BiH) - September 25, 2018
Sacrifice - Echo Canyon (CAN) - July 23, 2018 - First ascent
Stone Butterfly - Herculane (ROU) - May 15, 2018 - First ascent
Underground Dreaming - Arco (ITA) - February 24, 2018 - First ascent
Super Crackinette - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 10, 2018 - Flash
La Castagne - Saint-Léger du Ventoux (FRA) - February 2, 2018
Meiose - Charmey (CHE) - January 27, 2018
Naturalmente - Camaiore (ITA) - April 21, 2017 - First ascent
Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, (ITA) - April 19, 2017 - third ascent
Hyper Finale - Ayent, Rawyl (CHE) - July 17, 2016
Vicious Circle - Osp (SLO) - March 25, 2016
Predator - Bohemian Karst (CZE) - November 19, 2015 - first ascent, the hardest route in Bohemia
Three Degrees of Separation - Céüse (FRA) - July 27, 2015 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2007)
Realization - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2014 - tenth ascent
Ini Ameriketan - Baltzola (ESP) - May 9, 2014
Hell Racer - Hell (NOR) - September 22, 2013 - first ascent
Kangaroo's Limb - Flatanger (NOR) - September 21, 2013 - first ascent
Torture Physique Integrale - Gastlosen (CHE) - July 7, 2013 - first ascent
Power Inverter - Oliana (ESP) - January 25, 2013 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2010)
Thor's Hammer - Flatanger (NOR) - July 8, 2012 - first ascent (now downgraded to 9a)
Perlorodka - Holstejn (Moravsky Kras, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - first ascent
Overshadow - Malham Cove (United Kingdom) - May 16, 2011 - Second ascent of Steve McClure's route
Chaxi - Oliana (ESP) - March 21, 2011 - first ascent of Chris Sharma's project
Obrint el sistema - Santa Ana (ESP) - March 14, 2011 - first ascent of Daniel Andrada's project
L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs - Céüse (FRA) - September 4, 2010 - First ascent
Marina Superstar - Domusnovas (ITA) - October 20, 2009 - first ascent
Corona - Frankenjura (DEU) - June 7, 2009 - second ascent of Markus Bock's route (2006)
Papichulo - Oliana (ESP) - February 24, 2009 - second ascent of Chris Sharma's route (2008)
Open Air - Schleierwasserfall (AUT) - November 17, 2008 - second ascent of Alexander Huber's route (1996)
La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - February 10, 2008 - sixth ascent
On-sight
:
Water World - Osp (SLO) - Nov 2022 -
TCT - Gravere (ITA) - July 11, 2014
Il Domani - Baltzola (ESP) - May 3, 2014
Cabane au Canada - Rawyl (Switzerland) - July 9, 2013 - Second-ever 9a onsight in history
:
Just Do It - Smith Rock (Oregon, USA) - November 12, 2018
C'est la vie - Alternatívna stena (SVK) - October 5, 2016
Super Plafond - Volx (FRA) - July 6, 2014
Chambao - Baltzola (ESP) - May 7, 2013
Pure Imagination - Red River Gorge (USA) - November 1, 2012
Golden Ticket - Red River Gorge (USA) - November 1, 2012
Deltaplane Man Direct - Entraygues (FRA) - May 31, 2012
Bella Regis - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012
La Rubia - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - April 13, 2011
Powerade - Vadiello (ESP) - March 9, 2011
Kidetasunaren balio erantsia - Etxauri (ESP) - March 6, 2011 - Second-ever 8c+ onsight in history after Bizi Euskaraz by Patxi Usobiaga in 2007
:
Scoglio de Capri - Bus De Vela (ITA) - April 7, 2012
Iluzija - Kotecnik (SVN) - April 5, 2012
Bat Route - Malham Cove (GBR) - May 16, 2011
Smoke - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010
Home Sweet Home - Pierrot beach (FRA) - August 5, 2010
Una Vida Nomada - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009
Nagay - Covolo (ITA) - April 21, 2009
Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 7, 2008
Digital System - Santa Linya (ESP) - February 5, 2008
Boulder problems
Ondra won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2008, 2009 2010 and 2011.
He climbed 293 boulder problems between and . Specifically:
1 9A/V17
4 8C+/V16
20 8C/V15
31 8B+/V14
57 8B/V13
76 8A+/V12
115 8A/V11
:
Soudain Seul - Fontainebleau (FRA) - February 8, 2025
:
Brutal Rider - Moravian Karst (CZE) - May 25, 2020 - First ascent
Ledoborec - Moravian Karst (CZE) - May 24, 2020 - First ascent
Gioia - Varazze (ITA) - December 6, 2011 - Second ascent of Christian Core's boulder (2008)
Terranova - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - November 10, 2011 - First ascent, traverse
:
Pohár Nesmrtelnosti (Prodloužení) - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 23, 2022 - First ascent
Vrtule - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - October 13, 2017 - First ascent,
Kráter - Holštejn (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - June 24, 2017 - First ascent
:
Emotional Landscapes - Maltatal, (AUT) - March 11, 2026 - Flash
Celestite - Val Bavona, (SUI) - February 28, 2026 - Flash
Captain Nemo - Val Bavona, (SUI) - February 28, 2026
The Lion's Share - Brione, (SUI) - February 25, 2026 - Flash
Big Nose - Val de Bagnes, (SUI) - November 2025
Foundation's Edge - Val de Bagnes, (SUI) - November 12, 2025 - Flash
Autofix - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - July 20, 2025
Sviní Ponor - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - April 26, 2020 - First ascent
Iceberg - (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - April 23, 2020
Nunavut - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent
Pučmeloun - Sloup (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - November 15, 2019 - First ascent
Ghost Rider - (Moravian Karst), (CZE) - September 24, 2019 - Second ascent
Cháron - Petrohrad (Mlýnský vrch), (CZE) - October 15, 2011 - First ascent
Practice of the Wild - Magic Wood (CHE) - October 1, 2011 - Chris Sharma's boulder (2004)
Pata ledovce - Holštejn (Moravian Karst, CZE) - September 6, 2011 - First ascent
Monkey Wedding - Rocklands (ZAF) - August 14, 2011 - Third ascent of Fred Nicole's boulder (2002)
From The Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - November 30, 2010 - Dave Graham's boulder (2005)
Big Paw - Chironico (CHE) - November 29, 2010 - Third ascent of Dave Graham's boulder (2008)
Multi-pitch routes
The Dawn Wall - El Capitan (USA) - 3,000 feet (915 meters) tall - 32 pitches, at least two of which graded . Described as the hardest big wall in the world.
January 14, 2015 - Redpointed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days, after 7 years of mapping.
November 21, 2016 - Redpointed by Adam Ondra in 8 days, after a few weeks of practicing the already mapped ascent.
Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (Madagascar) - October 10, 2010 - First free ascent
Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (MDG) - October 7, 2010
Tough Enough Original - Karambony (MDG) - October 4, 2010 - First free ascent
Tough Enough - Karambony (MDG) - September 30, 2010 - First free ascent
Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - October 18, 2008 - First onsight ascent
Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée (Aiglun, FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent
WoGü - Rätikon (CHE) - July 26, 2008 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlanders route (1997)
Zub za zub - Rätikon (CHE) - July 29, 2007 - First free ascent
Silbergeier - Rätikon (CHE) - July 27, 2007
Filmography
The Fanatic Search - 2009 - Produced by Work Less Climb More and Laurent Triay
Progression - 2009 - by Josh Lowell - Produced by Big UP Productions
The Wizard's Apprentice - 2012 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood - 110'
Reel Rock Tour 7 - 2012 - Produced by Big UP Productions
La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb in the World - 2014 - Part of Reel Rock 7 () by Big Up Productions
Change - 2014 - Directed by Petr Pavlíček - Produced by Bernartwood -
Silence—The Story of Adam Ondra and the World's First 5.15d - 2018 - by Bernardo Giménez - Produced by AO Production s.r.o.
Ondra is also producing his own video series about qualifying and competing in the 2020 Summer Olympics, released on YouTube, called Road to Tokyo.
Books
JAROŠ, Martin; ONDRA, Adam. Adam Ondra: lezec tělem i duší. Albatros, 2019. 200 p.
ONDRA, Adam; GIMENEZ, Bernardo; BÍBA, Lukáš. Adam Ondra Book. AO Production, 2019. 223 p.
Awards
2009
2008 Salewa Rock Award
2010 Salewa Rock Award
2011 Salewa Rock Award
2013 Salewa Rock Award
See also
Sébastien Bouin, French rock climber, frequent climbing-partner with Ondra
Chris Sharma, American rock climber
References
External links
Adam Ondra at the Paris 2024 Summer Olympics (archived, alternate link)